You need to be gentle with the old plastics to avoid breaking. Normally they are replaced but I have cleaned a few relays before (mostly low voltage) and had luck. That's why you might have to rewire some stuff to fit it elsewhere:Ĭontrol voltage would go on terminals 13&14 instead of a and b on that one, and the heater between one common and one normally open contact, so 5&9 or 8&12. This one has spade connectors but might be a bit bigger size wise. If those are just regular spade connectors, you can get matching generic relays for just about 20$. I would check the resistance between pins a and b on the relay to make sure the new relay isn't requiring to much more input current on the switching side. ![]() If you are technical enough to do some wire splicing and terminating, you should be abled to just get any 12VDC relay that can switch 250V AC 16A and use that instead. ![]() Of course, where possible, you should always use original parts.īut that specific relay is actually mostly no longer available or obscenely expensive for a very simple relay. Seems more like the relay is bad though, yeah. If the control does not send 12V to the relay, that can't switch over. The main control sends 12V DC to the relay, which then switches the 120V AC for the heater. It could be the relay or the main control. ![]() Checking that there is no fault to earth is important to, so for good measure, check between the heater and its casing, though that is unlikely as that would/should have caused more of an issue.
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